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(Created page with "__NOTOC__ This '''CGS parts FAQ''' is mainly to point out where some of these parts can be obtained in Australia. Most parts should be easily found around the world. ==== LM3...") |
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==== 4000 series ICs ====
*Q. Why does my 4015 get stinking hot? (4015 is just a randomly chosen 4000 series number – this applies to all 4000 series chips such as 4017, 4024, 4066 etc.)
:A. It is probably a 74HCT4015, or some other 74xxx variant designed to run on 5 volts. It is possible that these chips may not have the "74" in their part number, so avoid any that start with "HC". You want CD4015, HEF4015 or MC14015. Note that Motorola includes "1" at the beginning of their part numbers. A MC4015 is a different device altogether and will also get stinking hot. If the salesman behind the counter tells you the 74xxx will work just as well, IGNORE HIM – he's a salesman, not a technician or engineer. There will be letters after the device number. "B" is the most common. these extra letters indicate whether the chip is buffered, and what package type it is. Make sure you get a DIP package and not an SMD package.▼
▲A. It is probably a 74HCT4015, or some other 74xxx variant designed to run on 5 volts. It is possible that these chips may not have the "74" in their part number, so avoid any that start with "HC". You want CD4015, HEF4015 or MC14015. Note that Motorola includes "1" at the beginning of their part numbers. A MC4015 is a different device altogether and will also get stinking hot. If the salesman behind the counter tells you the 74xxx will work just as well, IGNORE HIM – he's a salesman, not a technician or engineer. There will be letters after the device number. "B" is the most common. these extra letters indicate whether the chip is buffered, and what package type it is. Make sure you get a DIP package and not an SMD package.
==== 0.156 inch MTA connectors ====
[[File:Cgs_0.156_MTA_connector.jpg|thumb|right|177px|0.156" 4 pin MTA connector]]
0.156 inch straight 4 pin connectors as used for the power supply connections on the PCBS (MOTM/Blacet
* [http://www.altronics.com.au/ Altronics], sold as [https://web.archive.org/web/20190614000817/https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p5604-oupiin-4-way-3.96/ mm-pcb-mount-pin-header/ P5604] and [https://web.archive.org/web/20190614000818/https://www.altronics.com.au/p/p5644-oupiin-4-way-3.96/ mm-crimp-housing/ P5644]
* [http://www.jaycar.com.au/ Jaycar], sold as [https://www.jaycar.com.au/4-pin-0-156-straight-locking-header-with-crimp-pins-3-96-pitch/p/HM3444 HM3444] and [https://www.jaycar.com.au/4-pin-0-156-header-with-crimp-pins-3-96-pitch/p/HM3434 HM3434]
* Allied [https://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-640445-4/70083691/ 640445-4] (unchecked source)
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==== TO-3P heatsinks ====
Sometimes these can also be salvaged from old computer monitors, or switch-mode power supplies. Be aware that both monitors and switch-mode power supplies may retain dangerous voltages even when not powered.
* [http://www.altronics.com.au/ Altronics]. 50 mm sold as [https://web.archive.org/web/20190614000816/https://www.altronics.com.au/p/h0665-34-x-50/ mm-heavy-duty-to3p-pcb-mount-heatsink/ H0665].
* [http://www.jaycar.com.au/ Jaycar]. 40 mm sold as [https://www.jaycar.com.au/pc-mount-to-3p-heatsink-40 mm-high/p/HH8522 HH8522].
==== Transformers ====
*Q. Is an 18V CT (center tap) [[transformer]] the same thing as a 18V-0-18V (36V CT, as used in the CGS power supplies) transformer?
:A. No. An 18V CT transformer is clearly not a 36V CT transformer.
*Q. How do I wire a mains transformer?
:A. If you need to ask this, you should not be attempting it. Get someone qualified to do it for you.
==== Ferrite beads ====
[[Ferrite bead]]s as used on the power supply feeds to the PCBS. These beads can also be salvaged from old computer circuit boards, hard drives etc. Failing all else, they can be be replaced with a wire link.
* Altronics [https://web.archive.org/web/20170620151255/http://www.altronics.com.au/p/l5250a-4mm-ferrite-suppression-bead/ L5250]
* Jaycar [https://www.jaycar.com.au/ferrite-bead-for-emi-suppression-pk-6/p/LF1250 LF1250]
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12 position rotary switches. Made by Alpha. Lorlin switches also work.
* Mouser D shaft [https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1044?qs=VJkHNLJxjTc1lAMR6V5qCg%3d%3d 10WA144] or round shaft [https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK2368?qs=%2fha2pyFadugNnjZAP6zxj6WY9h6aZ1aquv3gee2Pb74%3d 105-2454].
* Altronics [https://web.archive.org/web/20170615023609/http://www.altronics.com.au/p/s3021-1-pole-2-12-position-pcb-mount-rotary-switch/ S3021]
* Jaycar [https://www.jaycar.com.au/1-pole-sealed-pcb-rotary/p/SR1210 SR1210]
==== SPDT
PCB mount SPDT
* Altronics [https://web.archive.org/web/20171113104327/http://www.altronics.com.au/p/s1332-salecom-spdt-centre-off-pcb-mount-mini-toggle-switch/ S1332]
==== Wavetable ROMs ====
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[[BC547]] transistors are just a cheap common NPN transistor. Just use what you can buy locally. 2N3904 should be fine, though the leads are in the reverse order, so you will need to install them "backwards" with respect to the transistor outlines on the overlay. The same applies to BC557, just use the 2N3906. Later PCBs have transistor symbols within these outlines to assist with substituting transistors.
Note that the BC547 and BC557 are available in other pin-outs too, depending on which TO-92 spec. the manufacturer has used. According to
A Phillips C547 '''is''' a BC547. Same applies to C548, C549 C557, C558 and C559. This is one odd occasion where the "C" is not referring to a 2SCxxxx Japanese transistor.
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I'm afraid I'm very untechnical in my choice of capacitors. Sure, sometimes you need a really high quality one for a specific application, but generally almost anything will do, as any degradation in performance is usually unnoticeable to the ear. Mostly I use what I have to hand, and that is MKT, greencap or some other brand's variant of mylar (red, yellow, whatever). If I have nothing else to hand I will use ceramic. I prefer MKT or Wima for larger values (100nF and above) simply because they are physically smaller. My PCBs reflect this. For decoupling capacitors, little monoblocks (monolithic ceramic) are fine. That is what they are meant for after all.
A quick guide to quality of ceramics, courtesy of Harry and other SDIY members:<br />The good stuff is at the top of the list. The stuff at the bottom are really only any good for decoupling power rails. "Low-k" versus "High-k" are referring to "K" (dielectric constant). Really, capacitors should be chosen for accuracy and stability, rather than just a very general reference to their dielectric constant.▼
▲The good stuff is at the top of the list. The stuff at the bottom are really only any good for decoupling power rails. "Low-k" versus "High-k" are referring to "K" (dielectric constant). Really, capacitors should be chosen for accuracy and stability, rather than just a very general reference to their dielectric constant.
Small cap values in any size package are usually "low-k" as in C0G or NP0 dielectrics.
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This video shows Ken Stone soldering a 1206 SMD 100n capacitors on CGS boards using a regular soldering iron. Instead of using the tip of the iron to position the component, a small screwdriver could be used. Likewise, instead of using your fingernail, a screwdriver could be used to hold the component down.
{| style="float:bottom; font-size:85%; text-align: left; border:1px silver solid;"
| <youtube width="300" height="200">_DsCdOaRUPM</youtube>
|-
| Hand soldering a SMD with a regular soldering iron.
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==== Jacks. ====
I never specify jacks as these will vary with a user's requirements. Sometimes a design will include a [[Normalisation|normalized]] connection, which obviously cannot be achieved easily with a banana connector.
== To use the wire anchor holes ==
# Trim off the end of a suitable gauge of hookup wire
# Pass it through the larger (pad-less) hole from below and pull a couple of inches through.
# Strip the insulation from the end of the wire, twist and tin it.
# Bend the wire over and pass the tinned part through the associated pad hole. Trim as needed.
# Flip the board and solder the tinned wire to the pad.
# Pull the excess wire back through the first hole so only a short length remains between the hole and the second pad. Make sure this is the LAST step, or the insulation will peel back from the wire as it is soldered.
== See also ==
* [[CatGirl_Synth#The_CGS_modules|The CGS modules]]
== References ==
* ''[https://web.archive.org/web/20170430151727/http://cgs.synth.net/ Where to buy parts/Which parts FAQ.]'' by Ken Stone, 2001, with permission of the author - archived
* ''[https://web.archive.org/web/20170420052751/http://www.cgs.synth.net/help.html Please read this before attempting to build anything from these pages.]'' by Ken Stone, with permission of the author - archived
{{reflist}}
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== External links ==
* [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cgs_synth CGS Synth discussion group], for discussion of locating parts, modifications and corrections etc.
* [https://www.
[[Category:CGS
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