→Capacitors.
(Created page with "__NOTOC__ This '''CGS parts FAQ''' is mainly to point out where some of these parts can be obtained in Australia. Most parts should be easily found around the world. ==== LM3...") |
|||
Line 77:
I'm afraid I'm very untechnical in my choice of capacitors. Sure, sometimes you need a really high quality one for a specific application, but generally almost anything will do, as any degradation in performance is usually unnoticeable to the ear. Mostly I use what I have to hand, and that is MKT, greencap or some other brand's variant of mylar (red, yellow, whatever). If I have nothing else to hand I will use ceramic. I prefer MKT or Wima for larger values (100nF and above) simply because they are physically smaller. My PCBs reflect this. For decoupling capacitors, little monoblocks (monolithic ceramic) are fine. That is what they are meant for after all.
A quick guide to quality of ceramics, courtesy of Harry and other SDIY members:<br />The good stuff is at the top of the list. The stuff at the bottom are really only any good for decoupling power rails. "Low-k" versus "High-k" are referring to "K" (dielectric constant). Really, capacitors should be chosen for accuracy and stability, rather than just a very general reference to their dielectric constant.▼
▲The good stuff is at the top of the list. The stuff at the bottom are really only any good for decoupling power rails. "Low-k" versus "High-k" are referring to "K" (dielectric constant). Really, capacitors should be chosen for accuracy and stability, rather than just a very general reference to their dielectric constant.
Small cap values in any size package are usually "low-k" as in C0G or NP0 dielectrics.
| |||