PCB fabrication (homebrew): Difference between revisions

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=== Photo resist ===
Print the PCB layout onto clear or translucent film – this is the ''mask''. Plastic transparency might deform from the heat of the printing. Place the printed side against photo-resist coated PCB and expose to ultra-violet light. Pre-sensitised copper clad boards are easier than spray photo-resist where it's difficult to attain consistent thickness needed to estimate a correct exposure time. For double sided boards, first tape the two masks printed sides together then tape the board in place between them and expose both sides to the UV.<ref name="mega">Mega [https://web.archive.org/web/20140524062053/http://www.megauk.com/video.php PCB Instructional Video]</ref> Use the recommended developer not sodium hydroxide, this removes the coating where it has been exposed to UV. Follow the manufacturers directions for correct concentration and temperature. Leaving the photo-resist on the board prevents the copper oxidising and it acts as half reasonable a solder flux,<ref name="mega" /> unless the board is going to be tinned.
== Etching ==
Etching the PCB in Ferric Chloride (FeCl<sub>3</sub>) solution removes the copper not masked by the etch resist. Take precautions because FeCl<sub>3</sub> will deeply stain anything it comes in contact with.