PCB fabrication (homebrew): Difference between revisions

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This article aims to be a guide to quickly and efficiently producing consistently high quality homebrew PCBs. The cost of materials is of secondary importance.<ref name="mh">''[http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html How to make really really good homemade PCBs]'' by Mike Harrison</ref>
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==PCB layout design==
ChooseAlthough apossible suitablewith tape and transfers, or permanent marker pen [[Electronic design automation|EDA]] application,software forwill theoffer schematic capture, PCB layout, ERC (theelectrical circuitrule diagramchecks), PCBDRC layout,(design Gerberrule fileschecks) etc.and suchother as [[Eagle]]features, [[DesignSparke.g. PCB]],simulating [[KiCad]],the circuit with [[gEDASPICE]].<ref>PCB design, [[Fritzing]http://www.ladyada.net/library/pcb/software.html Software options], etcladyada.net</ref><!-- Wikibooks' Practical Electronics [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Practical_Electronics/PCB_Layout PCB Layout] and [http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Practical_Electronics/PCB_Layout/Trace_Current_Capacity Trace Current Capacity].
===Best Practices===
==Bill of materials==
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Alternately take a straight edge and secure it along the line to cut. Then take a chisel (one set aside for this), and run one of the corners along the straight edge. First pass go lightly to just get a bit of a groove dug in for the tool to follow so it wont jump out on subsequent passes. Next pass or two press hard, and dig in for a deep groove. Score on both sides. Secure the board and snap the piece off. To finish the edge make a pass or two along it with a fine file.<ref>[http://www.eevblog.com/forum/manufacture/cutting-fr4-boards/15/ Cutting FR4 boards], EEVblog forum, August 2012</ref><ref name="diyaudio"/>
==Printing and etching==
There are two methods to choose from, the toner transfer method is cheap and is simpler but takes a lot of patience and fiddling about. The more expensive photo resist method can be much more accurate and one printout can be used multiple times but italso requires aan [[UV exposure box]] and another chemical to developdeveloping the board.<ref>[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=102924.msg914631#msg914631 Re: DIY etching PCB's - Toner Method or Photo Resist Method?] by R O Tiree, 27 May 2013</ref>
===Toner transfer===
Using a laser printer or copier, this does not work with an inkjet printer, to print an image of the PCB tracks on glossy paper. Laying this printed side onto the de-oxidised and de-greased copper laminate and using an iron at a high temperature, on the rear of the paper to transfer the toner from the paper onto the copper. After soaking in water to remove the paper, the toner now transferred to the copper laminate acts as an etch resist.<ref>[http://fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm ''Easy Printed Circuit Board Fabrication, Using Laser Printer Toner Transfer''] by Thomas P. Gootee, 2007</ref> This can also be used to print component side parts and legends. ''Press'n'Peel'' is similar to this method.
===Photo resist===
Print the PCB layout onto clear or translucent film - this is the ''mask''. Plastic transparency might deform from the heat of the printing. Place the printed side against photo-resist coated PCB and expose to ultra-violet light. Pre-sensitised PCBscopper clad boards are easier than spray photo-resist where it's difficult to attain consistent thickness needed to estimate a correct exposure time. For double sided boards, first tape the two masks printed sides together then tape the board in place between them and expose both sides to the UV.<ref name="mega">Mega [http://www.megauk.com/video.php PCB Instructional Video]</ref> Use the recommended developer not sodium hydroxide, this removes the coating where it has been exposed to UV. Follow the manufacturers directions for correct concentration and temperature. Leaving the photo-resist on the board prevents the copper oxidising and it acts as half reasonable a solder flux.<ref name="mega"/>
===Etching===
Etching the PCB in Ferric Chloride (FeCl<sub>3</sub>) solution removes the copper not masked by the etch resist. Take precautions because FeCl<sub>3</sub> will deeply stain anything it comes in contact with.
===Safe disposal of FeCl<sub>3</sub>===
FeCl<sub>3</sub> is toxic and harmful to the environment - do not flush spent etchant down the drain. After use leave the FeCl<sub>3</sub> to stand still for at least a couple of days, the copper precipitates to the bottom, leaving still useful etchant on top. Pour this into another container. Add pure sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO<sub>3</sub>) aka baking soda to the thick mud at the bottom. The NaHCO<sub>3</sub> will react with ferric chloride rendering the solution relatively harmless to the environment. Do only a little bit at a time, waiting for the reaction to settle down each time. The reaction will produce a substance 7 to 10 times the volume of the solution, any spillage will contain still active FeCl<sub>3</sub> that will stain whatever it comes in contact with. Keep adding the NaHCO<sub>3</sub> until the rust-coloured mess is fairly dry in texture. It can then be disposed of along with the household waste.<ref>[http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?PHPSESSID=2721ef0370b6f7ad578168a1c3200a26&topic=50426.msg377103#msg377103 Re: how do you all dispose of Ferric Chloride?] by Mark Hammer, 15 October 2006</ref>
===Alternative etchant to FeCl<sub>3</sub>===
Cupric chloride etchant is very similar to ferric chloride, but is simple to regenerate and there are no disposal problems.<ref>''[http://www.xertech.net/Tech/CuCl_ech.html Etching Circuit Boards Using Cupric Chloride and Acid Solution]'' by Stephen Kasten</ref>
 
==Tinning==
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==Drilling==
Use a drill press and a drill with a collet not a chuck. A 0.75mm drill bit will suit most holes and a 0.9mm for headers.
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==Commercial PCB fabricators==
 
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== References ==
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*[https://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk/view/Project:Deactivating_a_ferric_chloride_solution Deactivating a ferric chloride solution]
===Commercial fabrication===
*ladyada.net wiki: [http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/tutorials/library/pcb/manufacturers.html? Where To Have Made]
*[http://pcbshopper.com/ PCB Price Comparison], a calculator showing the prices for prototype PCBs from different manufacturers