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Cut the board to size using a craft knife/Stanley knife/box cutter and a steel ruler. Make several cuts each side of the board and simply snap when the cuts are deep enough, or use a junior hacksaw. Lightly file the edges and corners to remove any sharpness. Cut the strips with a pin vice and 3 or 4 mm drill bit, a craft knife or ideally a spot face cutter. Just enough to cut through the copper, don't drill through the board or you'll only weaken it. Use a magnifying glass to visually inspect the cuts for residual connections, or check the discontinuity with a multimeter. Try not to touch the copper with bare fingers. If it's tarnished it won't solder easily. Use fine emery paper to clean the oxide off.<ref name="eafc"/>
First solder the link wires. Strip and solder one end, measure and cut the wire to length, strip the other end, bend and insert it in the other hole and solder, trim both ends. Then fit any terminal pins and sockets, these will help with orientation when fitting the rest of the components. For sockets first solder two diagonal pins then check the socket is fitting flush to the board before soldering the rest of the pins. Solder the rest of the components, starting with the lowest or smallest and working up in size, lastly insert the ICs into their sockets. As you go along double check component values, that polarised components are correctly oriented and that links and leads go to the appropriate copper strips. Finally do a visual check for badly cut strips, poor solder connections and short-circuits between adjacent strips. Use solder braid to remove solder. Consider using terminal pins or solder posts to provide off-board connections and test points, these are less fragile than [[hookup wire]] soldered directly to the board. Test points make testing simpler. Update your layout if you make changes.<ref name="eafc"/>
This order of assembly is best for most projects. If a circuit has several sub-circuits it may be better to build and test each before connecting them together.<ref name="eafc"/>
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