User:Rob Kam/sandbox1/Talk:Prototyping with matrix board

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http://synth-diy.org/cgi-bin/htsearch?config=htdig&restrict=pipermail%2Fsynth-diy&exclude=&method=and&format=builtin-long&sort=score&words=prototyping

http://makezine.com/?s=perfboard+prototyping http://makezine.com/2015/10/15/how-and-when-to-use-protoboard/


http://www.jameco.com/shop/keyword=prototyping-circuit-board

http://www.dartmouth.edu/~sullivan/prototyping.pdf

--- Wire specification Diameter of wire: 0,20 mm (34 AWG) Insulation: Self-fluxing polyurethane* Insulation Thickness: 0,005 mm Proof Voltage: 600V d.c. Current Rating: 0,100 A Resistance @ 20o C: 0,857?/m Length of wire/spool: 40 m Colours: Pink or Gold Verowire Ordering information Description Unit of Sale Order code Wiring pen 1 79-1732 Spools wire; 2 gold, 2 pink 4 79-19038 Spool wire, Pink 4 79-1737 Spool wire, Gold 4 79-1739 Wiring combs 100 79-1735 Half pin 1000 18-0223

http://uk.farnell.com/prototyping-pcb-products

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"[sdiy] pros and cons of SMT in DIY thread" at http://synth-diy.org/pipermail/synth-diy/2017-May/thread.html

http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/PCB-Board-Assembly-and-Repair/Circuit-Board-Assembly-Repair-Kits/310-0652-10123

So, there are two or three kinds of prototype board board. I may have stated things a little too far, by calling regular perf board as a pad-per-hole board by mistake -- apologies there.

Plain vanilla perf board is just FR-4 laminate material with typ. 0.042" holes drilled every 0.100". I've definitely seen some DIY projects built on this material. At various times, for example Radio Shack, here in the US, has offered this kind of prototype board.

Other prototype board companies offer that same kind of board, but as an acutal PCB, with additional plating through the inside of the holes. It's just a PCB where the pattern is an array of pads, which are then drilled and then plated. These make for a nice soldering surface, and I've also seen DIY projects done with this material.

Another form of this kind of pad-per-hole prototype board was also offered by Radio Shack, and this was pure copper pads on one or both sides of the board. These are less effective, because without plating, the copper easily oxidizes, and with out plating (e.g metalic deposition over copper) the pad can rather easily be burned off while soldering.

I was just recommending plated pad-per-hole for new DIY enthusiasts, to save from some of the soldering and reliability hassles with the alternative solutions.

Building on Pad Per Hole?, SDIY email list, Nov 2003

I'm sure others can comment on the circuit you found in the URL. I thought I'd mention some issues about building on pad-per-hole, if you've never done that before. Maybe useful?

I definitely recommend that you obtain copper clad pad-per-hold board that has plated-through holes, instead of bare or blank pad-per-hole that has no copper. Even copper on one side is better than not having it. The reason is that with a plate-through hole (where there is plating material over the copper, and there is actual copper within the hole), you have much more surface area with which to solder onto.

For instance, if you stuff resistor or capacitor leads into the holes, then solder these leads at the holes, there is much more for solder to grip to then the case for mere leads by themselves.

Of course, copper clad boards are slightly more expensive than boards without copper, and it is possible to build projects on pad-per-hole perf board that is unclad. But, IMHO, it's more tedious work, and risks heating the components more than tying them to a solder pad would.

Then, an embellishment beyond pad-per-hole plated holes might be perf board material which has some small number of power and ground buses, to simplify distribution and bypassing of power supply voltages to your circuits elements.

Building on Pad Per Hole?, SDIY email list, Nov 2003

  • I can also vouch for the structural integrity of super-gluing down wire-wrapping wire or polyurethane enamelled copper (magnet wire) for mods to PCBs. Never seen one fail, and they're almost impossible to rip up if you need to. totally agree,
  • Kynar is just amazing to work with.
  • Nail varnish works well too, but takes longer to set than superglue :)

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6 pros and cons of SMT in DIY, SDIY list thread http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/PCB-Board-Assembly-and-Repair/Circuit-Board-Assembly-Repair-Kits/310-0652-10123 https://www.modwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=144008&sid=ab5b727c2105aed59b920b9320046a88 Quality alternative to prototype strip-board], Mod Wiggler forum, Aug 2015 EDch 13 deign developement tools.pdf p82 http://www.virtualworkbench.com/lochmaster.html

Plan your pad-per-hole layouts before you put soldering iron to board, this will save you time, brain-ache, money and components http://www.sdiy.org/chaotician/

https://www.sbprojects.net/projects/ircontrol/hardware.php https://www.sbprojects.net/copyright.php

[1]

I use perfboard (also called “matrix board” or “pad board”): double-sided prototyping boards with individual tinned copper pads around plated-through holes, not continuous copper strips. Interconnections are 30 AWG single-core kynar-insulated wire, much thinner than normal hook-up wire.[2]

[3]

  1. ^ 11.2 Jumper Wires, IPC-A-610: Acceptability of Electronic Assemblies
  2. ^ Which Solderable bread board / Copper Strip Board?, Mod Wiggler Forum, May 2023
  3. ^ Building a module byshedsynth, Jan 2021
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